Thursday, July 24, 2008

Back to the Park (100th post to this blog!)

Up at 5 and on the road by 5:30, at the Centaur Boulder by 7:40. Breezy, cool and clear and no-one else around. Finally snagged the second move on Gang Bang Arete. The key? Latching my forefinger on the top of the LH pinch hold when throwing for the lip. However as the video shows, it isn't quite over until it's over. The sun got quite a bit hotter and I was driven to the other side to work a bit on Secret Splendour. I think GB is closer to V9 than V8 but who knows?

Secret Splendour is really tough but I feel like it might be doable if I could get the compression strength to stay put on the sidepulls. The start is very demoralizing and awkward but after that it gets really good. Wondering about the dihedral right of Nuthin But Sunshine--all the holds are there. Any takers? I also looked around and did some really fun moderates pictured below.

The boulder in the upper photo has three good problems in the V1/V0 range. The obvious center scoop is great and fairly long and the left and right lines are fun.

The boulder in the lower photo has a great easy line across the obvious rail, going right to left. However moss resides on one of the jugs, which I prefer not to disturb. Both are about 30 yards east of the Centaur boulder, i.e. back towards the canyon entrance.

On this trip, I carried three regular pads and my old Black Diamond spot. Slow going through some of the trees. Maybe it's time for there to be proper designated access and a clear trail constructed?

Now I have to get back to the Spot and try the two problems I set on Tuesday, a blocky 4 spot and the "Spot-dala", a 5 spot crimp ladder, both on the Font Boulder.

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