Thursday, July 17, 2008

Taurus Video

Here's a short clip from an ascent of Taurus, a minor little gem near the Centaur boulder in RMNP. The first move is a bit powerful but for me clawing over the slab was no picnic. Gang Bang Arete at V8 makes this around V3. Perhaps there are rules but everything seems pretty straightforward after you do the first lock-off, whether you go right or left.

Still looking for the love on the second move on GB. The rest feels OK. Beta seems straightforward enough. Secret Splendour felt slippery this morning. Lots of clouds and mosquitos. I am having no luck with the heelhook to get the second crimp. The other moves feel doable by comparison.

Bush Pilot, by the way is still completely buried at this point and may not be ready until late August. I was hoping to get on Geeks of the Industry (V7?) today but there's still something like 3 feet of snow at the base. I should add that every time I go up to Lower Chaos I am struck by the untouched moderate problems. Last summer I was checking them out as well. Given the short hike and beautiful setting, less ambitious boulderers who don't mind hoofing some pads might find some real gems to play on. I will start documenting them as I find them.


video

10 comments:

sock hands said...

is geeks of the industry the end of freaks? i have never gotten clarification from anyone on that... or, is is a separate line?

also: chip and i definitely have spent a few days doing moderates all around lower chaos and i'm certain many folks have before us... since these lines do not get press, no one cares to stop and try them... seems like when folks visit they are always trying to visit the climbs they hear about and no one sprays about the easy stuff... i'm no better, my ticklist is derived directly from the flavor of the month list from the last few years, but just sayin..

Jason said...

Peter,
Can you give me basic directions to Taurus? I know the major boulders in lower chaos but am not that familiar with the area? Any help would be great. Thanks

Peter Beal said...

JJ, I will be posting photos/video of moderate lines in Chaos from time to time so if you and Chip can supply info that would be great. Geeks is on a small boulder NE of the Bush Pilot boulder. Clean steep wall with crimps.

Jason, Taurus is directly adjacent to the Centaur boulder. If you were standing facing Gangbang Arete, it is about 10 yards NW from it.

sock hands said...

for magnetically-challenged folks, which direction is geeks if you are facing bushpilot, 12oclock style?

Peter Beal said...

Approximately 2 o'clock and 100 yards. The wall has a tree directly adjacent to it. I think you climb through it to top out.

sock hands said...

word!

Jason said...

Thanks.

sock hands said...

ok, peter, i have to call foul here again: the "rest" on secret splendor is not "ok" at all; i could hardly get ANYTHING back on it before the final redpoint crux moves. is there something i missed? double-kneebar bat hang at the chopped bolt holes?

Peter Beal said...

I think you got Blair-witched and somehow wound up in the Arsenal at Wifle. By the way, can you give reasonable directions to Lonestar/Stinkbug?

leif said...

that looks like a sweet problem. thanks for posting the vid