tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4790818505250918302.post2166843033296351083..comments2009-04-15T21:30:20.923-06:00Peter Bealhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15576690594320743452noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4790818505250918302.post-32456795129406229532009-04-15T21:18:00.000-06:002009-04-15T21:18:00.000-06:00the reason this probably feels "soft" to you is because of the the v3 jug start used, which i deemed to be "off route". i don't think it should be used to complete the problem, except maybe for a foot. i pull on then match the undercling rail in its entirety then cross left into the first hold on curmudgeon ( the slopey crimp rail), then also i do not use the crimp out left by the crack, which i had heard was not on route, i lock off the slopey crimp rail with the heel toe and reach far up right to obtain the "good egde", (aka curmudgeon) staying tight to not dab on the rock behind you for the finish. For me this problem felt v9, maybe a bit soft for v9, but much harder then hollows way for me, the standard for v8, which is often regarded as HARD, at flagstaff. it probably just depends on your climbing etiquette, whether the route be v7 or v9... any ways good work, none the less <br /> <br /> Alexalex manikowskinoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4790818505250918302.post-84954652086275404872009-03-03T11:33:00.000-07:002009-03-03T11:33:00.000-07:00Hi Ted, how did you do the problem?Peter Bealhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15576690594320743452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4790818505250918302.post-90196152107101111032009-03-02T12:46:00.000-07:002009-03-02T12:46:00.000-07:00Yeah, V8 sounds about right for New Beginnings. Your beta was quite a bit different than mine. Nice work.Ted Lanzanohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13358890061939258004noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4790818505250918302.post-33163368107346892742009-03-02T08:14:00.000-07:002009-03-02T08:14:00.000-07:00pretty line.tissuehttp://icftg.comnoreply@blogger.com