Comments on Mountains and Water: 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes; The M...

Ya, regarding Dunne, the author notes that Dunne w...

2010-02-17T13:16:12.334-07:00

Ya, regarding Dunne, the author notes that Dunne was an early adopter of periodization...

"However MacLeod cites John Dunne (and I'...

2010-02-04T18:18:50.192-07:00

"However MacLeod cites John Dunne (and I'm sure there are others) whose physique is not thin and has achieved 5.14."

dunne has been perceived as a bit of an enigma certainly, but reality might be a bit different than myth: macleod mentions that there are rumors about dunne losing 30 to 40 pounds before sends. true or not, i don't know, but this perhaps adds context to dunne the enigma.

For sure excess weight is undesirable in climbing....

2010-02-04T14:24:29.219-07:00

For sure excess weight is undesirable in climbing. However MacLeod cites John Dunne (and I'm sure there are others) whose physique is not thin and has achieved 5.14. The odds are against more than a minority reaching this level but since climbing is a technique oriented sport with a lot of weight borne by the legs and feet, weight by itself is not a determining factor. Remember that long ago 5.13 was a goal seen as worth starving for. Seriously.

Thanks for the follow-up Anon 2

"Focusing on losing weight is a very dangerou...

2010-02-04T13:37:11.396-07:00

"Focusing on losing weight is a very dangerous path to follow as it can lead and does lead to eating disorders. 3% is a number regarded as "essential" and is not a good guide for an athlete who does not undertake "normal" physiological function."

maybe i was misunderstood: i certainly didn't endorse a 3% level! let the marathoners live in that range (which they do!); i think like you mention, around 6% might be the lowest a climber would get to (although it'd be interesting to know adam ondra's %, or usobiaga's).
my point (and dave's) is that hauling around extra weight can be a deal breaker. a 150 pounder going from 12% to 6% would lose close to 15 pounds! try climbing a 5.14 or a V12 with 15 pounds strapped to your butt.
i would even suggest that 5.14 hasn't been climbed by anyone over 10% body fat....

but anyway, i agree with you that the book was excellent, and I'd certainly recommend it to anyone who's serious about improving.

"the weight issue is a biggie, and something ...

2010-02-04T10:51:56.267-07:00

"the weight issue is a biggie, and something he went into a litte bit. i think he talked about body fat %, and it was refreshing to read about it this way: be scientific about weight-loss. know that the human body needs about 3% body fat, and anything above is stored as superfluous sub-dermal fat. in other words, lose it!"

I passed over this section in part due to space reasons as well the feeling that readers can think about it on their own. MacLeod's view is that for the most part weight should not be a major issue. Focusing on losing weight is a very dangerous path to follow as it can lead and does lead to eating disorders. 3% is a number regarded as "essential" and is not a good guide for an athlete who does not undertake "normal" physiological function.

In One Move Too Many, the authors cite a 1999 study that "body fat below 6% for men and 10% for women does not significantly improve performance."(190) They go on to say "Without that fat you are starving your muscles and connective tissues of water and their necessary nutrition."

Personally, I feel that it is easier and healthier to "lose" a few pounds by doing the move better, using momentum and better footwork, and getting stronger fingers, etc than obsessing about calories. Eat sensibly and have a generally healthy lifestyle and that should be sufficient. Being thin is not the aim, climbing well in way that helps you live better is.

The fact that you agree that 'Performance Rock...

2010-02-03T23:09:49.675-07:00

The fact that you agree that 'Performance Rock Climbing' is "the gold standard" goes a long way towards making me believe that this book is worth checking out.

From what you've written, it sounds as if this book is for a certain type of long-term climber, one who has been around the block and is familiar with the habits and the personal dramas that invades our little heads to mindf@ck us in so many ways and keep us from performing at that "next level." The utility of the important messages in 'PRC' and Horst's books like 'Flash Training' and 'How to Climb 5.12' are certainly watered down and diminished by these habits and dramas '9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes' sounds as if it makes strides in this arena via a completely different spin to help those that are motivated get the most out of our bodies and minds.

Look forward to checking this book out ... Thanks for this!

i enjoyed the book also. read it through the first...

2010-02-03T16:22:59.873-07:00

i enjoyed the book also. read it through the first night, methinks.

the weight issue is a biggie, and something he went into a litte bit. i think he talked about body fat %, and it was refreshing to read about it this way: be scientific about weight-loss. know that the human body needs about 3% body fat, and anything above is stored as superfluous sub-dermal fat. in other words, lose it!

I agree that the goal is to remove irrational fear...

2010-02-03T15:23:32.432-07:00

I agree that the goal is to remove irrational fear. The problem is that it can be difficult to know 100% for sure that falling will be safe. I have had fairly terrifying falls inside and outside that I thought would be safe.

For another perspective, read this article.

nice review, though i slightly disagree on two poi...

2010-02-03T03:13:10.550-07:00

nice review, though i slightly disagree on two points

a) in retrospective it would have been very useful even when i was an "advanced beginner", maybe as a complement to a more classic self-coaching manual.

b)in the fear of falling chapter, my understanding is that it suggest taking away the irrational fear, but keeping the rational judgement about what's safe and what's not.
The message is not to intentionally take 50 footers on marginal gear with the rope behind your leg...

Agreed, Peter. I recently bought the book and hav...

2010-02-02T19:58:56.162-07:00

Agreed, Peter. I recently bought the book and have greatly enjoyed it. While it was more of a confirmation that I was already doing the right things in my training, I learned some invaluable lessons about how to assess myself. Great book from a fresh perspective.

Great post. Can't wait to read this book.

2010-02-02T15:40:27.057-07:00

Great post. Can't wait to read this book.