Comments on Mountains and Water: A Visit to Movement

Good points all. As I tried to make clear my bias ...

2009-09-02T13:27:59.158-06:00

Good points all. As I tried to make clear my bias is toward bouldering and efficiency in training for climbing. Sadly I don't have time for treadmills or kettlebells and I don't even own an ipod.

I saw Paul bouldering there last night but realistically it's a very limited space. The floor is first-rate but the walls are what counts. Maybe Jamie E setting there will help.

The routesetting is good, I agree.

I'm having positive experiences at Movement. ...

2009-09-02T12:10:21.934-06:00

I'm having positive experiences at Movement.

The walls:
the soft 12a you mention is runout (for the gym), but I thought that made it more fun. That's the only route I've done at Movement that I thought had a big fall.

I've had no trouble clipping. I actually find the steep wall easy to clip on since the holds are larger than holds on lower angle routes.

The bouldering seems to be good enough for the likes of some strong boulders.... I won't name names, but they are young, have dark hair, and have done jade. Although the bouldering grades are indeed a bit erratic, they are getting more consistent.

CATS will always be best for power.

Route setting:
I've climbed many routes (at my level there) and all in all I think the grades are fair.

Vibe:
I like the diversity. It is pulling me out of my box. I will try new things and perhaps get fitter and more flexible.

Childcare:
I will be psyched for this when my daughter is 6 months old. Daycare hours may be limited by laws regarding hours and licencing...

Summary:
I like Movement for the steep wall, treadmills (with TV and ipod ports), sufficient bouldering (with better padding than the spot) and the clean, bright, open atmosphere.

This is a gym in Boulder... there will always be lines and spray. Oh well...bring a wetsuit.

I'm primary a route climber and love Movement....

2009-09-02T11:41:13.231-06:00

I'm primary a route climber and love Movement. They did a great job with a medium sized space. The bouldering area is not the biggest but gets the job done. Their route setting is top notch throughout both areas.

However, the "fitness" area is horrible. There is not a single bar, for pull-ups or hanging leg raises, or a dip station. Their rings are setup too far apart. Their squat rack does not have catches or bumpers, making dumping a missed weight dangerous. Their largest kettlebell is less than a pood. The only thing I can train for in their "fitness" area is a seated one-legged butt kicking contest, via leg extension machines.

Nice review Peter. My membership at The Spot is up...

2009-09-02T10:32:21.477-06:00

Nice review Peter. My membership at The Spot is up for renewal soon, so I decided to try a monthly membership at Movement. For me, rehabbing an injured finger, I love the place so far. That said, I haven't been able to try the harder routes yet.

I haven't had any issues with crowds, but I've been going during the later afternoon, early evenings.

I also like the fitness part of the gym and have been going in on non-climbing days to use the equipment.

Time will tell I guess, but I think some of the issues you mentioned are not permanent (except for the lack of additional overhung walls of course) and will iron themselves out.