Saturday, October 6, 2007

Putting on a Rope!

Went out to the Primo Wall today to take photos of Shine, a route I freed back in 1997. Fred Knapp is publishing a new guidebook, which looks fantastic, and wanted photos of the route. The moves felt very doable as I worked out the crux for the camera. Not too bad for 14a and thanks again to Mike Downing for the belay. First time on a rope in about 4 months. The word is that there will be an article in climbing about Clear Creek very soon. No one's asked for my view on the area, see previous post for more on this topic.

Also did a V10 traverse at CATS on Thursday and very close on a short straight-up V10 so things are coalescing a little with the shoulder injury. Cold and rainy forecast for tomorrow so Spot or CATS.

Also, inch for inch, Mirthmobile is the finest route in the canyon regardless of grade.

Finally kudos to Jim Logan who at age 60 has redpointed Sonic Youth 5.13a in Clear Creek. For more about this remarkable and modest climber who has done a little of everything from FFA of the Diamond on Longs and the North Face of the Eiger to the first ascent of the Emperor Face of Mount Robson, read his interview at
Jim exemplifies the spirit of keeping it real without making a big deal about it.

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