Saturday, February 26, 2011

Two Videos for the Flagstaff Library

Continuing the video reference guide to Flagstaff, here are two problems. The first is the sit start to a problem at Pratt's Overhang called Crystal Corner. This transforms an old V3 classic into an even better V7 problem, that offers some interesting technical and powerful moves.

Crystal Corner SDS V7 from peter beal on Vimeo.

The second is a video of Just Right, one of the most classic of the 70s-era problems. The FA was from Jim Holloway. I am doing it one move lower than the standard high start. I have seen people pile up very tall stacked pads and cheatstones to get off the ground on this problem. For this start I used one folded pad to reach the holds. The grade for this version is somewhere in the low V9 area. This video is the only one on the internet of the whole problem that I know of.

Just Right Lower V9 from peter beal on Vimeo.


Andy said...

I meant to comment on your last post, but is there any chance you might be able to do an interview with Ty? I am pretty sure he is in school right now. It would certainly be interesting to hear how that is going for him, about his hiatus from climbing, and if he will really ever get back into it. I watched Between the Trees the other day and was thinking if he was still climbing as he was at this point he would be one of the strongest out there.

Peter Beal said...

Andy, if you haven't read this already, you may find it interesting:

I think it would be a good idea to catch up with Ty and talk about his plans and perspectives on the current scene.

Nate said...

Hey Peter - I've been a bit confused on something with Just Right, and perhaps you can clear it up for me. Is the jug to the left of the left-hand pinch off for both hands and feet, or just hands? I noticed you use it in the video (or I think you do, anyway) and was a bit curious.

Peter Beal said...

The jug is on for either but doesn't help much for shorter people. I am not sure it really helps for taller people either. I used it for a foothold but it isn't necessary.

Michael H. said...

I have only seen this finished up and left from the sloping dish (as opposed to the right exit in the video). Does that add or subtract any difficulty?

Peter Beal said...

You could finish that way if you want some highball excitement but it would be a variation as the right exit is the natural option. The hold up and left is good but eventually it still leads to the trough. Going more direct is optional.