Sunday, April 27, 2008

One more project at Flagstaff

Yesterday in near perfect conditions I succeeded on a little problem at Flag I had been working on a little while. It starts just right of Hagan's Wall and joins the ramp on the right. When I got there this problem had a few tick marks on it but not on the holds that I used and in any case it doesn't really matter whether I got the "first" ascent or not. Anyway a bunch of tries on this very crimpy and insecure problem which I think is worth V10 and indicative of the remaining potential on the mountain.

The starting hold and the damage after sending...

Winding up for the first move.


chuffer said...

Peter, I was with Will Lemaire when he did a similar overlapping problem in January 2006. Based on your description, he did not use the exact sequence as you ... same starting place, reach up and right to a RH sloper (possibly the hold you use with your LH), adjust feet to the right on small edges and violently dyno straight up to a pocket that is part of the 3rd/4th? rail and surf up the fun finishing moves. Not sure if you would like to consider these different problems or what. I will again try to pimp him for a name a grade, but you know how that sometimes goes. Let me know what you think or if you've tried or will try WL's version.

The current state of Yojimbo's broken holds (and I use that term loosely) suggests that problem would currently be well into the double digits and VERY unpleasant at that.

Peter Beal said...

Chuffer I did a problem similar to Will's many years ago that started LH on the edge and RH on a small pocket, bumped right to the sloping rail/fin, then popped left hand to a thin crimp and finished up the ramp. This was before the big step was installed. So the "new problem" doesn't use the pocket or the rail.