Yesterday in near perfect conditions I succeeded on a
little problem at Flag I had been working on a little while. It starts just right of Hagan's Wall and joins the ramp on the right. When I got there this problem had a few tick marks on it but not on the holds that I used and in any case it doesn't really matter whether I got the "first" ascent or not. Anyway a bunch of tries on this very crimpy and insecure problem which I think is worth V10 and indicative of the remaining potential on the mountain.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUta07ZAJO7gGfltUfPvKmPy8DfZImU6y0Xh_GNZr6U1vFyRRYU017CpQlJnOrrlKhctxuNpNUXZKHwkJTgB2OCvLDwLb90mOoR1S621rlHFdpd4-JwP6YgDM910hc_NtSt9MYwS5LvI/s320/HPIM0580.JPG)
The starting hold and the damage after sending...
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEjmmwRGxxvjHX1Fu1kkQqOLiXloU5mT0SQezgG2GzPEzIdp6Lq2b2NwpPOPSLaG2RuANOhWYEsGMpWr1nBjnU1NTZdK_WqLybQSX_9FM1e8A4aQxper8Mmkb43mwofRVp9I1id8ejIc/s320/HPIM0540.JPG)
Winding up for the first move.
2 comments:
Peter, I was with Will Lemaire when he did a similar overlapping problem in January 2006. Based on your description, he did not use the exact sequence as you ... same starting place, reach up and right to a RH sloper (possibly the hold you use with your LH), adjust feet to the right on small edges and violently dyno straight up to a pocket that is part of the 3rd/4th? rail and surf up the fun finishing moves. Not sure if you would like to consider these different problems or what. I will again try to pimp him for a name a grade, but you know how that sometimes goes. Let me know what you think or if you've tried or will try WL's version.
The current state of Yojimbo's broken holds (and I use that term loosely) suggests that problem would currently be well into the double digits and VERY unpleasant at that.
Chuffer I did a problem similar to Will's many years ago that started LH on the edge and RH on a small pocket, bumped right to the sloping rail/fin, then popped left hand to a thin crimp and finished up the ramp. This was before the big step was installed. So the "new problem" doesn't use the pocket or the rail.
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