As my elbow has improved, I have spent more time climbing and less time focused on running. A pretty hard run on Sanitas aggravated the muscle at the top of my right hip so I am letting that settle down before going up high again. Tuesday I had a good session at the Spot doing about 17 problems most in the 4/4+ range. Wednesday I had a guiding day of sorts, taking a father and son out to the Sport Park for an introduction to climbing. I had put this up as a fundraising item where I teach and fortunately it was bid on. The Sport Park, which sadly was chipped into submission on a number of routes, is a really good hassle free way to introduce beginning climbers to a good variety of climbing styles and techniques. Especially nice was the absence of crowds of people and surprisingly moderate temperatures. All told I probably climbed about 400 feet of rock that day. Thursday, Caolan and I were going to go and try some of the climbing at the new area in Boulder Canyon, Tonnere Tower, but gray skies soon turned to rain and lightning so it was back to the Boulder Rock Club. I warmed up on a slew of autobelay runs and led a few routes in the 5.10 and easy 11 range before doing two 12- routes, the first serious endurance-style roped climbs I had done in many months. A couple top-rope goes on a crimpy 13 showed promise as well.
On the bigger news front, it is clear that a new generation and a new geographical emphasis has emerged. The exploits of Nalle Hukkataival and Adam Ondra are the defining standard in the world. After dispatching Jade in RMNP in a handful of tries over several days, Nalle has climbed a striking 8c arete, Livin Large, taking 12 days according to Chuck Fryberger. Meanwhile Adam Ondra has cleaned house in Rocklands flashing two confirmed V13s in a day and ticking too many other hard problems to list here. South Africa(make sure to visit B3 Bouldering) and Switzerland clearly have become must-visit locations on the international circuit and the new standard of performance represented by Ondra in particular is incredible as he is seemingly equally adept at every aspect of high-level rock climbing. I can't think of any other climber besides Chris Sharma who can boulder V13 or 14 easily and also quickly redpoint 5.15 endurance routes. Even Sharma cannot match Ondra's relentless pursuit of hard climbs of every style everywhere. There is no doubt in my mind that Ondra is ready to take it to another level both on a rope and off.