Monday, September 27, 2010

Back in the Park

Since my project at Lincoln Lake broke, I have been focusing my efforts in RMNP, trying to get up there once a week to try European Human Being. This crimpy V12 has long been on the to-do list and I have finally begun to really apply myself to it. A session last weekend didn't feel too bad but one glaring omission remained, the undercling move to the upper small crimp. This weekend I squeezed in a short session and started to really closely analyze it.




Pictured above is the classic position for the move with a high left foot. After repeated tries (and failures)to make this work, I have finally succeeded on the move by keeping my feet lower on smaller edges to the left. While I don't know if I can get this problem this season, solving that obstacle is a big step forward. It is obvious that one thing, more than anything else, is required for success on the problem and that is having the right hand lower crimp feeling like a jug. Everything else becomes much easier if that is the case.
The last obstacle is sticking the powerful but subtle throw out left. This is a hard move to a pretty good edge but the possibility for losing the left foot and spinning off is very high. I have done this move but always find it a bit touch-and-go. Here Aaron from Fort Collins shows how to set up for the move.



The temperatures over the past week have been curiously warm for this late in the season and the fear is that suddenly winter will swoop in and shut the alpine bouldering areas down. It would be nice to try this problem in crisp conditions for once.

5 comments:

adam strong said...

is the turd still there or did you hike it out? i also saw someone wipe a booger on the rock by secret splendor. i think there may be thousands of boogers up there. it's pretty bad. let's do what we can to get the word out on the booger situation.

Peter Beal said...

Now this is what I call funny. No Adam, I think the turd pretty much is your comment.

adam strong said...

no peter, the turd is the turd under european. did u hike it out???? it's under the rocks/logs i stacked on it/them. yes yes, i sculpted the landing, which i agree is akin to chipping, but, in this case, i think we can all agree there were extenuating circumstances.

adam strong said...

no, PETER, the turd is the turd under european. did u hike it out???? it's under the sculpted landing. get it.

Peter Beal said...

Yes Adam I think I get it now. ha ha.