Beat Kammerlander E10 at 50 and other News

A number of news sites including UK Climbing and 8a.nu have featured the story of Beat Kammerlander leading a 13d/14a onetime-sport route on marginal gear. The best story is at Planet Mountain but an interview with Kammerlander is here. Kammerlander has long been one of the most important figures in European climbing, known especially for his ferociously run-out and difficult multi-pitch limestone routes in the Ratikon in Switzerland. He is also a superb photographer.

I have embedded the amazing video (in German) below.


I should also add congratulations to Toni Lamprecht (38) for a sick hard (V15/16)linkup at his home crag of Kochel in Austria. Interview at Bjorn Pohl's site.

Philip Schaal is sending hard left and right in New England so visit his blog for the videos.

And Kevin Jorgeson wasted no time in scooping an classic V12 in Eldo, showing locals you don't have to hike for miles for unclimbed gems.

Lunchtime Video Fix

Be sure to visit the UK Bouldering group at Vimeo. Among many others is the following little gem:


The School from dobbin on Vimeo.

This is an interesting looking film about New England:


Sick. Climbing in New England from Taylor de Lench on Vimeo.

There are many other interesting clips here...

5 Questions for Mike Brooks

Mike Brooks is the individual behind one of the earliest examples of web-based climbing media. FRB has always been about original content making it an important source for information both about bouldering and about climbers. Among the many features of the site are his interviews with local climbers which form an important part of preserving the history of climbing on the Front Range. The message board of course has been the scene of much silliness and slander. Go to frontrangebouldering.com for more.


1. Hi Mike, How long has FRB been up and running?
FRB was 9 years old, last Feb 14, V-day



2. What was the initial idea and how did you get started?
the intial idea was just to have a place to post Cloud 9 beta
since a guidebook was a frigging rip off ( the publisher makes the lion share of the profit) eventually we realized most of Cloud 9 is out of bounds,
but by then i realized the fun i could have with a artistic (sic) outlet
of a website and message board.



3. What's the thing that you most want to improve about the site?
design, design , design and more reliable content providers. also
improve the skills of interviewing, podcasting and networking.

4. What do you think of the explosion of new Internet-based climbing media?
I could see the writing on the wall about 6 years ago. I'm surprised it took so many people so long to realize they can create their own world and presence online.


5. What does the future hold for FRB?
FRB is pushing into radio and tv. with the intent of
building, branding and solidifying our place in the
frontrange climbing world. We're also buying up domains
to strengthen ourselves against encroachment.
FRB is here to stay, we're in for the long haul

Thanks for your thoughts Mike!

I also wanted to add this excellent post about Fred Nicole from Chuck Fryberger.

Media

Not much to report climbing-wise as I am struggling to get out of a trough here. It's all been downhill since losing my 5.10 Dragons:)

Here's a link to an appearance on JvonD's Boulder Vidcast show. I talked a little bit about climbing on Flag and aspiring to do V13. It was fun and relaxed but always remember to turn off your cellphone in the studio! :) Thanks Mike Brooks and JvonD!

I also was quoted in a recent issue of Climbing, in a column about grading by Matt Samet. I stand by my sentiments about obsessing with downgrading. It doesn't help focus on what matters which is improvement and attitude.

Also read my short essay for Front Range Bouldering called "Surroundings."

The wall in the basement is taking shape and should be climbable soon.

New Beginnings Video

New Beginnings V8 Flagstaff Mountain from peter beal on Vimeo.

New Beginnings is a great traverse linkup in the Cloudshadow Alcove. After nearly flashing it, it took another session to refigure the beta that is shown in the video. Chip Philips has noted, after seeing comments in my 8a scorecard that I am getting on the "soft" bandwagon but in this case, the "soft" rating is deserved. If UCT is V9, NB is quite a bit easier, and if UCT was V8 as some have rated it, then NB would be V7. I am not picking on the problem or on Ted Lanzano who found a nice FA but I am highlighting the problem of reaching consensus for difficulty in bouldering.

If NB was in Hueco, it would probably be V9, but in Colorado the V9 grade is incredibly compressed, making it difficult to see the difference between V8 and V10. Add in the Flagstaff sandbagging factor and there you are...

Bouldering With EZ Harrison on Flagstaff

I got a late start on Saturday afternoon and headed up to Flagstaff. I spent some time looking again for the shoes and a Marmot hat I lost last week but again no luck. This is the strangest thing--the shoes would be of no use to anyone, are clearly climbing shoes that were lost in a very popular climbing/hiking area, but I have heard nothing and seen nothing about them anywhere. This is particularly bad as I have come to rely on the Dragons quite a lot recently and will have to get a new pair soon if the other shoe does not turn up. On Friday, hearing of my situation, Rob Candelaria at CATS very kindly handed off a pair of old-style V10s for me to take, a pair that never fit him well. This is typical of Rob's generous nature and I greatly appreciate the gesture.

I warmed up on the Consideration and Hagans which felt very easy and then EZ showed up. He warmed up a bit and we tried a problem that Ted Lanzano created near Cloushadow called New Beginnings. This is a short traverse into a steep V7/8 and is very atypical for Flag. My first try I fell off the end but afterwards could not replicate the sequence and kept doing worse. EZ did it after a couple of tries but I never linked it. It's a good problem and could be V9. I will be back. We then headed over to Hollow's Way which is the classic problem on Flag. It is tall and committing with the crux on top, but we had a healthy pile of pads to ease the landing. I tried it a bunch but could not get psyched for the lunge to the top. It's fairly easy to get there and I am sure my main issue was the height of the boulder and ensuing fall. After a handful of tries, EZ stuck the punch to the lip and was very happy to top it out. Massive respect to the padless FA in the 70s by Rob Candelaria. Anyway, I let it alone for a day when I am feeling more motivated and stronger.

On the way out, we found a chalk bag in the vicinity of Nook's Rock, and in the hope of improving the karma and maybe getting my shoes back, I will make sure the owner of the chalk bag gets it back if he or she sends a comment via this blog or by email describing the bag by color and brand. And please if you see anything regarding my shoes, please let me know.