Friday, December 7, 2007

Midnight Express Continued

Just for Olson so he doesn't get disappointed in my lack of posts. Speculation about the grade holding up surfaced the other night but I am waiting to see repeats. The video, again at Moon Climbing, shows a dynamic climb, a miniature route really, and clearly a Colorado classic regardless of the grade, up there with No More Greener Grass. While there are some big holds, the angle is extreme and they are far apart Given the patch of ice at the lip, Ty may have also done the hardest mixed climb in Colorado. Except for the knee dab at the lip, amazing form. Skeptics or not, this is a significant ascent and Ty has expressed his reservations about the grade as well. Climb it for the line which is amazing, especially for a problem 5 minutes from the road--makes it easier to shuttle the many pads required.

On the less significant side, a link-up of UCT and Trice has been done which while clearly difficult is not exactly inspiring since there isn't much hard climbing to get there. A fairly short Epoch so to speak. Unless it was the Reverse Undercling Traverse. I'll stick with the sit start as the way to go if anyone wants to squeeze more climbing blood from this mostly dry turnip. Also there's the Hagan's Wall start. Anyway snow's coming down so it all may be academic for a while. It will be for me as I correct papers and get a grad school application in order.

By the way impressive dispatches from Jamie and Brian in New England, the land of real winter. Tearing through Pawtuckaway, Rumney and Lincoln Woods in weather better suited for ice climbing--SICK!

I was psyched to dispatch the third rehab problem, a crimpy little V9 (maybe soft 10) at the Spot, a leftover from the comp (left side of the Hueco Boulder, purple tape, for you Spot crawlers). It went pretty quickly so I'm psyched. Since I have no time for outside climbing right now, it will have to do.


Climbing Narcissist said...

another case of getting mad press for an FA at a higher grade and quietly downgrading it later?

Peter Beal said...

I don't think hyping FAs is Ty's style and regardless it should get mad press since it's the best FA in Colorado bouldering since Jade. In his account he compares it to Cage Free Assis which has had only two ascents so far--Paul has been burrowing away but still isn't there, for instance. Ty is sick strong in the gym and very softspoken to boot

Climbing Narcissist said...

Agreed. My comment was a bit misplaced in this instance. I was referring to a general trend of new ascents being downgraded after the initial excitement occurring more frequently lately.

In this case you have to give Ty a lot of credit, and I didn't meant to detract from him specifically. His thoughts on the ascent were very interesting and well reasoned. The video of it also makes it appear to be a really classic line. It should be interesting to see how others fare.

Far be it for me to actually question the grades though. I am just a punter observing from the outside.

Paul said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
sock hands said...

clearly, olson should untwist his panties about YOUR posting, as i've had to sit here for weeks without a website update from him... and months without a blog update.