Monday, May 5, 2008

The Draft List--V8 and above on Flag

Hollow's Way V8
Smith Overhang V8
Last Overhang SS V8
Southern Sun V8
Mateus’ Highstep Extension V8
Moffat Direct V8
Low Monkey Traverse V8?
Redwall Standard Low Left Start V8
Mongolian Cosmonaut V8/9
Double Clutch V9
Firewall V9
Sweet Nothings V9
Beer Barrel Traverse V9
Undercling Traverse V9
Left Bulge Low Start V9
The Zombie Traverse V9
Red Wall Traverse L to R V9
Red Wall Traverse R to L (Just Another Traverse)V10
Just Right Low Start V9/10
Varney Super Direct V10
Shadow Line V10
Hagan's Wall Direct V10
Reverse Undercling Traverse V10
Pebble Traverse V10/11
Window Shopper V11
Mongolian Cosmonaut SS V11/12?
Over Yourself V11/12
Trice V12
Epoch V12
Epochalypse V13

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Please add your suggestions and comments and I will incorporate them in the list. I am omitting the Hobo Cave problems at this point


chuffer said...

V8 was a good starting point for your list. If you would have started at V7, the list would have doubled or tripled. A couple Qs/points of clarification about the stuff on the list so far:

1. By the low start for Just Right, are you referring to the high stand start where tall folks kick the cheaterstone out of the way, reach high and start. The sit start on the sloping ledge is WAAAAY harder than V9/10 if it is even possible in its current state.

2. Varney Super Direct V10 must be that problem that we exchanged e-mails about in 2000 that starts on small edges just down and right of Moffat Direct's starting flake. From there, pretty much do Moffat's tracking your feet all the way. Is this right?

sock hands said...

i've not been on it in a number of years, but since the right hand of mongolian has crumbled to become flat rather than incut and after the loss of some supposedly key pebbles under the roof to give opposition, discussions i've had with ascentionists of mongolian from the proper start suggested hard 9 or even double digits.

also, there was once a xander oxman problem to the right of just right that could be done standing or sitting for 8 to maybe 10... however a crucial edge crumbled making the stab left moves much more difficult. seems like it still goes and i had been close to repeating the stand a few years back, but of a low priority now that flag is not close for me. maybe give that one some effort and finish it off.

finally: colin lantz's 'so high' is likely v8. this is a jump start to the horizontal flakes of just right, reaching to the top of the initial face, then using a left hand sloper and other things to top out a blunt arete left of the just right exit ledge.

sock hands said...

lantz's chocolate edges right of double clutch... perhaps?

sock hands said...

undercling traverse to bob's bulge?

i thought that one was harder than reverse uct for sure.

trolling for mank / illegally mundane? reverse uct and jugs off to gain the historical eliminate "low cloudshadow traverse", which finishes out the hand traverse up to the top of hagan's wall.

though i worked that one in horrid conditions, at the time it felt harder than super gui.

just notes for you to take or leave. you opened the door with redwall stuff, and so the flood began!

chuffer said...

I have info regarding all of sockhands suggestions (So Wrong, The Oxman Arete, Daydreamer, and Chocolate Edges, UCT-Bob's Bulge Linkup, Trolling for Mank, Illegally Mundane, etc.) and more, but figured I had to save some stuff for my Flag Blog-Guide.

Peter Beal said...

I'd be happy to collaborate so you can tack "The List" as a permanent feature for your blog-guide. Since that's more like a permanent reference source, people will be coming back to it. I'll add in more details for the problems and you can copy it into your blog and add the info that you have and the list will be for a while anyway complete.

chuffer said...

let me comb through everything and get you the rest. some stuff is still a bit fuzzy, but most of it is ready for your list.