Thursday, June 18, 2009

Working Things Out (I hope)

This morning I went up to Flagstaff and after warming up did three problems in the V7/8 range pretty easily. It was a little warm but reasonably dry so a nice session overall. I am trying to explore the limits of my strength while not aggravating anything which is a delicate balancing act indeed. In addition to easier problems, I have been trying the low start to an old problem called That Flakes It Direct and finding it quite difficult. The grade feels like solid V10 and I would like to know the beta from the FA.

A recent post from the Climbing Narc has highlighted the imminent completion of a new gym in Boulder which I plan on visiting soon and posting some pictures here. About two years ago I made a conscious decision to climb indoors as little as possible, including CATS where I climbed almost nonstop for many years before, a decision that has reaped some benefits in terms of maintaining a fresh attitude about training and progress. Although it is true that nothing will get you stronger than an indoor gym/wall, there are pitfalls as well, which I am learning, or re-learning.

For those interested in the nitty-gritty of the physical mechanics of training, I am recommending a book called One Move Too Many which specifically lays out what happens physiologically while climbing and makes some very valuable suggestions for avoiding and healing injuries. If you are not aware of just how complex, versatile, and effective your arms, hands, and fingers in fact are, this book will enlighten you. The book is not cheap but well worth it, though the picture of the severed thumb (page 45) is a bit much.

I hope to present some thoughts on the contemporary literature out there on training and would love to hear from readers about which books, websites, etc they find helpful and why.


Tom Markiewicz said...

Interesting you should mention that book as I just received my copy in the mail. Despite the high price, I've had many climbers recommend it to me.

Peter N. Jones said...

Are you referring to That Flakes It Super Direct? The version of That Flakes It Direct that I do is hard, but not too hard. The sit start is very hard, but it all depends on what holds you use and what you consider on for your feet. The sit without the arete would be sick.

Peter Beal said...

The version I am thinking of goes more or less straight up the overhanging arete. The ramp on the right and the ramp/arete on the left would be off. I am thinking at least V10.