Friday, February 5, 2010

Climbing Action Contd.

The most recent highlight of a dim winter was wrapping up the SBS (Spot Bouldering Series) and not feeling too bad. In the end, if I had registered in Open Men, I would have been in 11th place overall, based on the best three results. So far in the Master's division there is not much participation but perhaps that will change over time. The comps at the Spot have the primary virtue of forcing a different style, one that requires big and powerful moves on massive sloping holds. It is also one that is potentially very dangerous to connective tissue. There is, by the way, a very interesting comment about this change in indoor climbing from Dave MacLeod at his excellent blog. So all in all, especially considering that most of this winter, I have been feeling below par, I am happy with that outcome. Definitely no Psychedelia though next year. Too dangerous by far!

I have hardly climbed outdoors at all in a month and am hoping for some change there. To make up for it, I have been focusing on the home wall and getting some real gains for a change. Yesterday, I completed a problem that could well be V10. I have some other really cool projects in the works as well. It is amazing what you can find once you start getting creative with a small space. Given my schedule, a home wall is the best solution for making the most of a short session.

My elbows have definitely been feeling better and in large part I credit a serious amount of pushups for this improvement. For anyone with lateral epicondylitis, if you can do them at all, working up to around 80-120 a day is probably a good step to consider. A small refinement is when you are at the extended position, i.e. when you have straightened your arms, push a little off your fingertips. Not violently, but firmly. I think this activates and stretches the extensor muscles and tendons that are such an issue. Pushups also extend the biceps and work the pectorals and other core abdominal areas. Other measures such as ice, heat, and massage are helpful too.

On the news, I am impressed by how little is going on in Hueco. Nothing really of note so far and the season is wrapping up soon. Third ascent of Terremer is cool but what else?


Anonymous said...

Hey Peter.

I need to get more on the push-up program, as am having some elbow issues. How many do you do per set to hit those #s? And all at once, or do you think better spread out?

For me, it's just been too much locking off at the gym - the point-to-point style of climbing.


Peter Beal said...

Sets of twenty to thirty spaced through the day. They are a great workout that can be done anywhere, anytime.

Anonymous said...

Cool, thanks Peter. Will try staggering them out that way. The thought of 80-120 all at once was daunting!