Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Hot Summer Indeed

While I am chickening out and going to the Spot--even dawn patrol is too warm now-- some crazy things are going on in the world of hard climbing.

First Paul Robinson's 2 hour repeat of the Fred Nicole V15 testpiece Amandla. Go to his blog for more. This was Nicole's ultimate route and suited Paul's style perfectly

Second Tyler Landman has been killing it in Switzerland with fast repeats of New Baseline V14, Danse de Balrog V13 2nd go, Radja V14 (both Nicole problems and likely the first of the grade in the world). He also flashed a V13. Go to Moonclimbing for more.

And another 8c+ onsight and this time it's in France at Pierrot Beach, Presles, near Grenoble. Paxto Usobiaga did Home Sweet Home, a 40 meter route that looks similar to the enduro testpieces of Spain. Details at 8a.nu.

Here's a video of a 9a route from the same cliff, Nice to Eat You, by Michael Fuselier.

Amazing stuff going on everywhere... except in the Front Range. Katherine Parr aka Flannery Shay-Nemirow repeated Bierstadt V10 at Evans with crazy beta, documented at Kelly McBride's blog. I haven't heard anything else recently really worthy of note. With Ty, Daniel, and Paul absent, the field isn't quite as strong as it was. Olson, sadly leaving for BC in a couple of weeks looked pretty strong in the Spot on Sunday, even with a knee brace.


sock hands said...

peter, don't be foolish! anything sent on flagstaff during daylight in july gets DOUBLE points. thus, that guy who sent 'just right' nabbed V14!

apparently, the success of all these kids has clouded you judgment as to what is newsworthy. v14 on flag? definitely a proud tick!

Peter Beal said...

Paxti has since 2nd-goed the 9a route in the video.

Re: Flag double credit, in principle I agree but only direct sunlight between 10 and 4 pm. Maybe no chalk as well.

sock hands said...

ok, but what 'bout kneepads and rubbing alcohol?

peter: please provide a list of the top 12 must-do sport routes in clear creek canyon, not including mirthmobile. grade is no object. mention of which are shady and overhanging jug hauls for summer sunday evenings after all the REAL climbing [bouldering] is done with would garner bonus points.

this is an instance of one looking up to your wisdom and experience and seeking advice... DON'T MESS IT UP!


what? i dunno.