Monday, March 23, 2009

Five Questions for Paul Robinson

Paul Robinson is close to the second ascent of Psychedelic at the Gorilla Cliff near Saint George, Utah. While taking some time to let his thrashed fingertips heal, Paul agreed to answer a few questions about the route and recovering from a fairly serious ankle injury. Visit his blog at for updates.

1. What's it like climbing on a rope?

"It is totally different mentally for me. I feel like it is way more mentally tiring than bouldering and because of this has my mind running so much more than ever before."

2. What is Psychedelic like as a route?

"Psychedelic is on perfect rock, the best rock I have seen in all of the St George climbing areas. It is long moves on small holds up a slightly overhung wall. It is 60 feet and can be summed up as a v6 boulder to a v13 boulder to about 30 feet of 13a to the top."

3. Why do you think it has taken so long to repeat?

"I think it has not been repeated in so long because it really is a boulderers route. Not that many boulderers come out this way. Not only is it bouldery but it is also very technical and mental with the last 30 feet of rope climbing after the crux. It is an all encompassing route really."

4. What do you think of Dave Graham doing it so fast back in the day? (He did it in a few tries in 2001)

"I am unsure as to how fast dave did the line but it is very impressive that he had the vision to do the line 7 years ago!"

5. What do you think has been key to your coming back from your injury so quickly?

"Just motivation really. I never wanted to lose what i had trained so hard for over the years so even with my injury I never gave up training and in all honesty just trained harder.

Thanks Peter, hopefully if my tips are good tomorrow, I will be able to finish it up!"

Thank you Paul and good luck on one of the most classic climbs of the grade in the country!

1 comment:

Peter Beal said...

Paul has sent the route. Also interesting to note that Isaac Caldiero has soloed The Present, a short bouldery 14a (which I have done on a rope and can testify to the difficulty of), possibly the second time this has been soloed.