Saturday, March 21, 2009

"Freak Accident" Boulder Canyon V12

I went up to Boulder Canyon yesterday to try the V12 linkup called Freak Accident on the wall just west of the Barrio. Unfortunately my finger tips were not very hard making pulling on the grips very painful. All the moves went quickly up to the next to last move holding on to get the high right crimp. This is a very interesting little problem and one that I hope to have more time to try in the near future. Basically it's a V9 into a V10 and the issue with the V10 part is scoping out the holds, especially the small crimp up and right of the crack. You want a lot of pads to stabilize the landing a bit so the roadside location is helpful. Here's the video of Ty Landman doing the FA at Momentum Video.

Afterwards I went to Flagstaff to finish off my fingers with a few boulder problems around Nook's Rock and Cloudshadow. At some point I want to break 80 V points in one session, adding up 10 problems in all. I find that 10 problems of any grade on Flag is not easy to do, given the nature of the rock, so to try to do 10 V8 and up is a longshot but it's good resistance training getting there.

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