Monday, May 10, 2010

Another Project at Flagstaff Goes, Boulder Canyon

I have been working on the low start to that Flakes It Direct for a few sessions. This is a really nice powerful set of sidepull crimps on an arete. It was done a few years back and is always chalked but I have never seen or heard of anyone doing it recently. After Chip Phillips pointed out an obvious and on-route heelhook, it all came together quickly. I tried the top-out doing the upper problem the hard way. It turns out that way is truly contrived so I finished up with a more direct path to the jug, as seen in the video. I still think the low part is V10. The music by the way is a song called "The Rules" from the children's show on Nick Jr., The Backyardigans. The lyrics are very apropos of climbing, especially the last lines as the credits roll.

That Flakes It Direct SDS Flagstaff Mountain from peter beal on Vimeo.

The next day, I headed up to Boulder Canyon to see how Hardboiled (V11) felt. The stream is nice and low and the approach was easy. After some frustration with slippery granite, the moves started happening and I linked to the lip. I am hoping this will go this season before the crossing gets hard. I should add that the ear on Replacement Killers is broken. A post on Mountain Project mentioned it was flexing and that was definitely the case. A few gentle pulls with a nut tool and it came apart. I am amazed someone didn't pull it off climbing. The problem should still go, maybe V12 now?

I will be working on updating some info on Boulder Canyon once the semester is over.


Doug Lipinski said...

Great send! Maybe someday I'll get there, but for now I'll stick to the top part of this problem.

Anonymous said...

Nice effort Peter. Jemerson

Peter Beal said...

Thanks Doug and Jamie!