Wednesday, May 26, 2010

The (Shorter) Reverse Undercling Traverse V9

The (Shorter) Reverse Undercling Traverse V9 from peter beal on Vimeo.

This is a very good powerful R to L traverse that exits into the Consideration, a classic old-school V3. The proper start is in the low cave on the far right end of the wall and tacks on an extra V grade. I have not been able to figure out the sequence to get through the corner so far. Eventually I will work more seriously on this option. Beta suggestions are welcome.

If you are interested in seeing a particular problem added to this blog, I will try to film it, either myself if I can do it, or someone else if feasible. Let me know. The videos on this blog are intended more as a resource or guide,helping people locate problems or figure out sequences, so the more the merrier.


Adayak said...

Nice climb - did you even use a crash pad?

Peter Beal said...

Trick photography :) Absolutely yes on the pads. The last time I played on the UCT, I stepped off wrong, bruised my heel a bit and felt it for a month. I might look like an idiot carrying four pads around but I would rather do that than lose months of climbing due to injury.

Matt S said...

Hey Peter,

Chris Weidner has beta on the full RUCT - I spotted him one day. It's pretty groundhoggish over there but manageable, I think, with some heel hooks that keep you out of the dirt. He probably even wrote it down!


chuffer said...

All the pads all the time.